Sunday, June 26, 2016

The Last Weekend

Shock. Polls had been moving steadily toward leaving the EU for some time, but then Jo Cox was murdered in front of a library in Leeds and the campaigning stopped for two days in the week leading up to the vote.

The Remain campaign now had a martyr, and the investment bankers, the “bookies”, took the following silence as a change of heart. Mistook.

And so did I, to be honest. The experts were clearly Remain, the Leave campaign seemed shady at best, and you would think that, after the events of the past ten years, no country in its right mind would vote to destabilize their economy, Europe's economy, the world economy, just to lose their say in the formation of EU regulations that they still wouldn’t escape.

I heard the word immigration thrown around a lot, because immigrants tend to be sensitive to that kind of thing, but I never really understood why--Europe's single market is predicated upon the free movement of workers. A change would never be allowed, not without great cost. And what's more, with a million British pensioners (retirees) living in Spain, deportation of EU nationals would mean bringing them back--and adding a lot of pressure to an already under-resourced NHS.

In the end, I hoped for a Remain vote, because we're paid in pounds and our student loans are in dollars, and the first and surest effect of a Leave vote was going to be a weaker pound.

So yeah. Shock.

I wasn't the only one caught in disbelief--nearly all of London was majority Remain. The Remain sentiment was so strong here that the pound, after being down to around $1.40 in anticipation of the vote, was up to $1.50 by midnight on voting day.

When I woke up, it was $1.33.

Thank God we beat the crowds in moving money early--with the rates up and the surrounding uncertainty, Transferwise* was bombarded with requests. They completely shut down on Thursday and Friday. American expat forums were filled with people kicking themselves, wondering whether they should still move their funds before it went any lower.

And then David Cameron resigned. What??? Soren heard about it from his coworkers, and that's when we decided to buy a TV license**. How do you deal with a public catastrophe except to glue your eyes to the television? I must have watched some segments a dozen times on Friday, but I don't care. In fact, I needed to. I needed the truth to sink in. I needed to see people who were angry, people who were calm, people who were hopeful, the people who were going to lead my country of residence through this mess. I needed to move beyond panic, to understand why anyone would do something so obviously stupid, to get an idea of what comes next.

Two years, a two-year period that the Prime Minister told us he can trigger when a new leader is in place and ready to negotiate. October, he said, would be a good time for that, at least for Britain.

Two years means that, of our five-year visa, at least half of it will elapse in a time of uncertainty and what may be bitter negotiations, both within Britain and beyond it.

Then Nicola Sturgeon announced that Scotland may hold another vote about whether to leave the UK. Scotland was completely majority Remain, 62% for the whole country. Many Scots are angry, regretting that they didn't vote for their own independence when they had the chance two years ago.

I understood the sentiment--I was angry too. I love London, and it is not in spite of the people. But the whole vote, even the fact that it happened, seemed selfish in the face of the refugee crisis and terror concerns. Every inbred prejudice my Yankee heart harbors against England bubbled to the surface--but then, plenty of English people felt that way too.

And those that voted Leave did so for a variety of reasons--some because of (probably false) anti-immigration propaganda, but others because they’ve seen the junior doctors driven to protest because they’re underpaid and overworked, and others because the EU is not strictly a democratic institution. They wanted to take control, to have a say in how to handle immigration and trade relations and funding. Many view it as a declaration of independence.

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The figure on this Vote Leave bus was revealed to be false on Friday
I understood that too, and I pitied those who were dismayed and regretful when Nigel Farage revealed that some of the Vote Leave adverts were definitively misleading. I pitied all of the UK, that such a decision that was rooted in so many lies and half-truths and undeliverable promises, on both sides of the debate.

In the afternoon, we went for a walk, discussed whether we should stop investing, whether we should start packing our bags, where we would even go if we left. Wait and see, we concluded, because we love London. We love London in a way that we’ve never loved a home before. Still, I quietly rejoiced that our lease has elapsed and we aren’t tied down.

By Friday evening, the pound had recovered slightly, and the stock markets reflected the same small dip up. A breath. Inhale, exhale. In, out.

The BBC made it clear that a unified front would be the only way to stifle the worst of disasters, and they convinced me. They emboldened me, and gave me hope. Hope, until the markets open again and the Tories start competing for the top spot and prices start climbing. Hope, until the EU leaders’ summit decides how they’re going to respond and the reality of the long slog of the next three years settles in and companies start reshuffling their staff.

Hope, for this: the last weekend.

The last weekend where a United Kingdom outside the European Union is still a blinding shock.






***
*Our preferred money-transfer service

**A fee for watching live feed that allows BBC channels to produce quality content ad-free. We were going to buy one for the Olympics anyway

Friday, June 17, 2016

The California Zephyr, Part I: Train Brain

Through the darkness, clickety-clack…
Coming closer, down the track…
Hold your breath so you can hear
Huffing, chuffing, drawing near.
  -Steam Train, Dream Train by Sherri Duskey Rinker & Tom Lichtenheld

November is dark in England. Whereas I think of “winter” as being mid-December through mid-March in Chicago, the depth of our first winter here seemed to span from early November through early February. That meant that during the dark and wet and chilly days of November, I was planning a trip.

Like, a big trip. At first, it was going to be a quick dive to somewhere fanciful and romantically wintry like Hallstatt, Austria. Then, we found out that Soren was going to have to go to Berlin.

And then, we had our first snow.

Now, the snow itself was terrible, anti-climactic, laughable even--a thin sheen of slush barely visible on the neighboring rooftops. But during the first snowfall of every year, I look up the YouTube video for the song “Snow” from White Christmas, because how else do you keep the romance alive?

Snow, Those glist'ning houses that seem to be built of snow
Snow, Oh, to see a mountain covered with a quilt of snow
  -”Snow”, Irving Berlin’s “White Christmas” (Watch on YouTube)

And guess where our beloved songsters are when they sing that song? ON A TRAIN! And a sleeper train at that!

Add to this that I was reading the delightful book “Steam Train, Dream Train” to Aksel every day (and the fact that I hadn’t flown with Aksel yet and was accordingly terrified of the prospect), and we had a plan: we were going to get Eurail passes and take a monster train trip through as many scenic routes as possible in Europe, beginning with a few days in Berlin and then traversing to everywhere beautiful and spending lots of time in the Alps!

Because two years ago, I finally learned that the best way to survive winter is to embrace it. How better to do so than to soak in the Black Forest and Salzburg and the Swiss Alps on a cozy train? Heck, why not add Vienna as well???

I cannot describe the manic obsession that overtakes me when I get an idea. It’s actually kind of a problem at this stage in my life, because I think Aksel does appreciate my attention from time to time, so when my eyes are glued to my computer as I look up train timetables and hotels, working out schedules and budgets, my “good mom” status definitely takes a hit.

“But Janel,” you say, “you didn’t mention the train or the Alps in your post about Berlin. What happened?”

In the midst of my train-mania, I was trying to book flights for our Christmas travels in the States, and I was dismayed at the cost of Christmas-week flights from Chicago to California. I decided to poke around and see just how expensive a train ride would be.

Now I'm transcontinental
3000 miles from my home
I'm on the California Zephyr
Watching America roll by
  -”California Zephyr” by Jay Farrar and Ben Gibbard (Listen on YouTube)

The prices of trains were definitely competitive with the cost of flights, and if we changed our dates by a day or two, we could go direct from Chicago to Emeryville, CA on the California Zephyr, which has a whole, beautiful song written about it. We booked it. We also booked a flight, in case we decided it was crazy (both were flexible fare options), and decided that this could be a great way to test out the train before the monster Europe trip.

The flight and the train would both set out on December 28th. Fast forward to the week of Christmas, during which Aksel got ridiculously sick (and before which we forgot to buy travel insurance, which was a very expensive mistake), and we were torn. To fly, or to ride the rails?

On December 27th, we had to make a decision. We decided to take the 52-hour train trip, and in our next post, I’ll explain why that was one of the best decisions we’ve ever made.